Cádiz

Cádiz
Glowing white in the intense southern light, Cádiz inspired the poet Lord Byron to praise its heavenly blue setting,
gorgeous women and sensuous lifestyle. Nowadays it is one of Andalucía’s under-visited treasures. According to
ancient chronicles, it was founded by the Phoenicians as Gadir (“Fortress”) in 1104 BC, giving it a good claim to
being Europe’s oldest city. Under the Romans it became Gades and was notable as the city where Julius Caesar
held his first public office. Having been almost completely destroyed by an Anglo-Dutch raid in 1596, the old part
of the present city is pure 18th-century and has remained virtually unchanged since then.
The Torre Tavira sports Spain’s first camera obscura, which projects live images of the city onto a large screen.

Top 10 Sights

1 Barrio del Pópulo
The Barrio del Pópulo is
the medieval heart of the
city, which still retains its
three 13th-century gates.
The main entrance of what’s
left of the 18th-century city
wall, the Puerta de Tierra ,
marks the boundary between the old city and modern-day
Cádiz.

2 Plaza San Juan de
Dios
On the edge of the Barrio del
Pópulo is this palm-fringed
plaza , dating from the 16th
century. Facing the port, it
forms the hub of city life.

3 Catedral Nueva
The “New Cathedral”
was begun in 1722. The best
view is from the waterfront
, where the yellow dome is
set off by the pastel
house-fronts.

4 Iglesia de Santa Cruz & Teatro Romano
In the midst of the Barrio del Pópulo is this church
dating from 1260 and the ruins of a Roman theatre.

5 Plaza de las Flores
This bustling market
square is also known as the
Plaza de Topete – named
after the tophet, a type of
ancient Phoenician temple,
that once stood here.

6 Torre Tavira
The highest tower in
the city offers great views
from its 46 m (150 ft) height.

7 Hospital de Mujeres
This Baroque former hospital’s main attraction is
the chapel’s painting of the Extasis de San Francisco by
El Greco.

8 Museo de las Cortes de Cádiz
Full of civic pride, this museum boasts a huge mural
eulogizing Cádiz as the birthplace of liberalism. On 29
March 1812 Spain’s first liberal constitution was
conceived here, a document that played a major role in
shaping modern European politics.

9 Oratorio de la Santa Cueva
This elliptical Neo-Classical chapel has an upper
church with an elegant dome supported by Ionic
columns. Three frescoes by Goya depict miraculous
moments from the life of Christ.

10 Museo de Cádiz
Archaeological finds and Baroque paintings are the
museum’s forte. Exhibits include a pair of 5th-century
BC Phoenician marble sarcophagi, one male and one
female, showing Greek and Egyptian influences; Roman
shipwreck finds; and works by Zurbarán, Murillo and
others.

La Mezquita

La Mezquita, Córdoba
Although it has officially been a Christian site for almost nine centuries, La Mezquita’s identity as a mosque is
inescapable – notwithstanding the cathedral insensitively placed in its centre like a huge spider in its web. As
with the Alhambra (see Moorish Granada: The Alhambra), Emperor Carlos V can be blamed for this aesthetic
indiscretion. Overriding the wishes of Córdoba’s mayor, Carlos authorized the cathedral’s construction in the 16th
century, although he deeply regretted his decision upon beholding the completed travesty. Yet, despite time’s
every indignity, the world’s third-largest mosque remains a place of grandeur, glory and ineffable mystical power.
Climbing up to the top of the Torre del Alminar is a dizzying experience, but affords unmissable views over the
town.

Top 10 Features

1 The Caliphal Style
The mosque was begun by Caliph Abd el-Rahman
I in AD 786. La Mezquita constitutes the beginning of
the Caliphal architectural style, combining Roman, Gothic,
Byzantine, Syrian and Persian elements.

2 Puerta del Perdón
Originally entrance to
the mosque was gained via
many doors, also designed
to let in light. This door , the
Gate of Forgiveness (1377),
is in Mudéjar style and is
now the only one open to
the public.

3 Patio de los Naranjos
The delightful Courtyard of the Orange Trees would
have been used by worshippers to perform ritual
ablutions before prayer.

4 Torre del Alminar
A minaret once stood
where the belfry now is.
Built in 957, it was
enveloped in this Baroque
belltower .

5 Interior
The plan of the interior is that of a so-called “forest”
mosque, with the rows and rows of variegated columns
(856 remaining) and arches said to evoke date palms.
Unlike Christian churches, based on earlier Roman
basilicas with their focus on the central enthroned
“judge”, the Islamic aim is to induce an expansive,
meditative state for prayer.

6 Recycled Columns
Great ingenuity was required to achieve the
rhythmic uniformity inside, since most of the columns
used in construction were recycled from Roman,
Visigothic and other sources. They were a hotchpotch
of varying sizes, so the longer ones had to be sunk into
the floor. To reach the desired height, a second tier was
added.

7 Mihrab
Dating from the 10th
century, this is the jewel of
the mosque . An octagonal
chamber set into the wall, it
was to be the sacred focal
point of prayer, directed
towards Mecca. No amount
of ornamentation was
spared. Emperor Nicephorus
III sent artisans from
Constantinople to create
some of the finest Byzantine
mosaics in existence.

8 Capilla de Villaviciosa & Capilla Real
One of the happier Christian additions, the
Villaviciosa Chapel has exuberant arches in the Mudéjar
style and dates from 1377. Next to it, the Royal Chapel
sports appealing Mudéjar stucco work and azulejo (tile)
decoration.

9 Cathedral
In 1523 some 60 of the 1,013 columns were
removed from the heart of the mosque and others walled
up so as to construct the cathedral.
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Highlights
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10 Choir Stalls
The Baroque choir stalls
date from 1758, and the
exquisite carved mahogany
depicts Biblical scenes.

Córdoba

Córdoba City
The main sight in Córdoba City is undoubtedly the Great Mosque, La Mezquita – one of the unsurpassed
masterpieces of world architecture. But the entire city, in all its immaculately whitewashed splendour, is a major
jewel in Andalucía’s crown. In addition to the mosque and its incongruous but splendid cathedral within, other
sights here include fine monuments and palaces from every age, art and history museums, one of Andalucía’s
greatest archaeological repositories, and a rather gruesome yet fascinating museum dedicated to the glories of
the bullfight.

Top 10 Sights

1 La Mezquita, Córdoba
The world’s third-largest mosque remains a place
of grandeur and mystical power.

2 Judería
All around the Mezquita is the city’s ancient Jewish
quarter, dating back to the time of the Roman Empire.
Its narrow alleyways are brilliantly whitewashed, hung
with flowerpots, and graced with beautiful Moorish
patios. This district also has Andalucía’s only medieval
synagogue, built in 1315.

3 Alcázar de los Reyes Cristianos
This fortified palace, built in 1328, was used by the
Inquisition (1500s–1820) and as a prison (until the 1950s).
But today it is tranquil, with gardens, water terraces and
fountains .

4 Palacio Episcopal
To the side of the
Mezquita, the former
bishop’s palace was built
over the original Moorish
alcázar. Fine arts of the
diocese are housed here.

5 Museo de Bellas Artes
A former 16th-century charity hospital is now the
city’s main art museum. It has a collection of works by
local painters and sculptors, as well as paintings and
drawings by Masters such as Goya, Ribera, Murillo,
Zurbarán, and Valdés Leal.

6 Plaza del Potro
This small but elegant
square, adorned with a
16th-century fountain , was
once the livestock market.

7 Museo Arqueológico
Housed in a Renaissance mansion, this is one of
the region’s best archaeological museums. A highlight
is the 10th-century Moorish bronze of a stag, found at
Medina Azahara.

8 Palacio de los Marqueses de Viana
This noble residence (14th- to 18th-century) includes
preserved period rooms and furnishings .

9 Museo Taurino
If you want to see the hide of the bull Islero, who
gored the renowned Manolete to death in 1947 – as well
as a replica of the sarcophagus of the matador – this
museum is a must. Dedicated to the bullfight, it is filled
with stuffed bulls’ heads, posters, costumes and other
memorabilia.

10 Puente Romano
Crossing the Río Guadalquivir, this massive arched
bridge has Roman foundations, although it was rebuilt
by the Moors. Halfway across is a statue of the Archangel
Raphael, whom the people of the city still honour with
flowers for saving it from the plague.

Real Alcázar

Real Alcázar, Seville
This extensive complex embodies a series of palatial
rooms and spaces in various styles and from various
ages. The front towers and walls constitute the oldest
surviving section, dating from AD 913 and built by the
Emir of Córdoba, Abd el-Rahman III, most likely on the
ruins of Roman barracks. A succession of caliphs added
their dazzling architectural statements over the ensuing
centuries. Then came the Christian kings, particularly
Pedro I the Cruel (or the Just) in the 14th century, and
finally the rather perfunctory 16th-century apartments of
Carlos V. Much of the structure underwent major
modifications as recently as the 18th century, due to
earthquake damage.
For more alcázars in Andalucía (see Alcázares, Palacios and Castillos)
Mudéjar architecture is a blend of Moorish building styles and Christian themes and imagery.

Top 10 Features

1 Puerta del León
The entrance gate into
the first courtyard is flanked
by original Almohad walls.
Note the Gothic and Arabic
inscriptions on the interior
façade.

2 Sala de Justicia
Here and in adjacent halls and courts is some of the
purest Mudéjar art to be found, commissioned by Alfonso
XI of Castile around 1330 and executed by craftsmen
from Granada. The star-shaped coffered ceiling and fine
plasterwork are quite exquisite.

3 Patio del Yeso
The secluded Court of
Plaster, greatly restored, is
one of the few remnants of
the 12th-century palace. The
delicate stucco work
features scalloped arches
and is set off by a shady
garden with water channels.

4 Patio de la Montería
The Hunting Courtyard has 14th-century Mudéjar
decorative work – a perfect synthesis of differing cultural
influences.

5 Casa de la Contratación
These halls are where Fernando and Isabel met with
the explorers of the New World.

6 Patio de las Doncellas
The Court of the Maidens commemorates the
annual tribute of 100 virgins delivered to the Moorish
rulers by the Christians. The azulejos (tiles) are fine
examples of Granada craftsmanship.

7 Salón de Embajadores
The most brilliant room in the entire Alcázar. Its
crowning glory is the dazzling dome of carved, painted
and gilded wood , inscribed in Arabic as having been
constructed by craftsmen from Toledo and completed
in 1366.

8 Patio de las Muñecas
The intimate Court of the Dolls was the living room
of the palace and is named after two faces carved into
the base of one of the arches.

9 Palacio Gótico
In a refurbished
13th-century Gothic structure
built by Alfonso X the Wise,
this palace has a rather
inharmonious Renaissance
styling.

10 Gardens
Moorish touches are everywhere among these
tranquil pathways and copses. Fountains, pools, lemon
and orange groves, palms and hedgerows extend in all
directions.
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Seville Cathedral

Seville Cathedral & La Giralda

In 1248, after some 500 years of Islamic culture, Seville was reconquered by Christian forces, who paradoxically
threatened the Moorish inhabitants with full-scale massacre if they damaged any of the city’s magnificent edifices.
Pragmatically, the conquerors simply rededicated the huge Almohad mosque to the Virgin and for about 150
years used it as their principal place of worship. In 1401, however, the momentous decision was taken to demolish
the then mouldering building and erect a new cathedral of unprecedented proportions on its enormous rectangular
base. In just over a century, the structure was complete, the renowned minaret now serving as the belltower.
More on Places of Worship

Top 10 Features
1 Exterior and Scale
In sheer cubic vastness, Seville Cathedral is the
largest Christian church in the world, and there’s a
certificate from the Guinness Book of Records on display
here to prove it. It measures 126 m (415 ft) by 83 m (270
ft) and the nave rises to 43 m (140 ft). The best place to
take it all in is from La Giralda.

2 Puerta del Perdón
The “Gate of Pardon” is set in a crenellated wall
and is the main entrance to the only surviving section of
the mosque. The arch and bronze-covered doors are a
masterpiece of Almohad art, carved with 880 Koranic
inscriptions. There are also sculpted Renaissance
elements, most notably a bas-relief depicting the
Expulsion of the Money-changers from the Temple.

3 Patio de los Naranjos
The Courtyard of Orange Trees was the place where
ritual ablutions were performed before entering the
mosque for prayer.

4 Biblioteca Colombina
The library of ancient
manuscripts is also an
archive of Columbus’s life
(see Discovery of America)
and his letters. It was
founded by the explorer’s
son, himself an avid
adventurer; he bequeathed more than 20,000 volumes
of his travels to the city when he died in 1539.

5 Interior
Inside the cathedral the Gothic arches are so high
that the building is said to have its own independent
climate.

6 Capilla Mayor
The main altar’s tour de force is its 15th-century
retablo , which is the world’s largest altar-piece .
Composed of gilded carved wood, it boasts some 45
Biblical scenes employing some 1,000 figures.

7 Sacristía de los Cálices
Part of the cathedral’s treasury is housed here. The
anteroom displays the Tenebrario, a 7.8-m (25-ft)
Plateresque candelabrum used during Holy Week. Inside,
the star turns are a painting by Goya of Seville’s patron
saints, Justa and Rufina, as well as canvases by Zurbarán,
Jordaens and other Masters.

8 Sacristía Mayor
The Main Sacristy is
dominated by a dome ,
designed in the 16th century.
The centre-piece of the
sacristy is a 450-kg (990-lb),
3-m (10-ft) silver Baroque
monstrance created by Juan
de Arfe.

9 Sala Capitular
The Chapter House contains Murillo’s Immaculate
Conception in the vault and boasts a lavish marble floor.

10 La Giralda
This grand tower is the symbol of Seville, built
between 1172 and 1195. It takes its name from the
weathervane on top, called El Giraldillo .

The Alhambra

Moorish Granada: The Alhambra

The great complex of the Alhambra is the best-preserved
medieval Arab palace in the world and, with nearly two
million visitors annually, it is also the most popular
monument in Spain. Built on the largely inaccessible
Sabika Hill overlooking the city of Granada, its most
distinctive phase began in the 11th century as the qa’lat
al-Hamra (Red Fort) of the Ziridian rulers. From the 13th
to almost the end of the 15th century the kings of the
succeeding Nasrid dynasty embellished the site in a most
spectacular fashion. The later Christian additions,
although handsome in their own right, are generally
thought to clash with the delicate, evocative architecture
of the Moors.
Each ticket is marked with a half-hour time slot of entrance, which cannot be changed.

Top10 Features

1 Puerta de la Justicia
Built in 1348, this magnificent horseshoe arch
makes use of Arab defensive techniques – a steep
approach combined with four right-angled turns – to slow
down invading armies.

2 Puerta del Vino
The “Wine Gate” – so called because it was used
as a wine cellar in the 16th century – marks the main
entrance arch to what was once the Medina (market).

3 Plaza de los Aljibes
From these ramparts
visitors can enjoy superb
views of Granada. The giant
cisterns (aljibes ) underneath
were built by the Christian
conquerors.

4 Alcazaba
Although largely in ruins, this fortress is well worth
a look. Don’t miss climbing up onto the Torre de la Vela
for views of the Sierra Nevada.

5 Palacio de Carlos V
This Italian Renaissance palace is the masterpiece
of Pedro Machuca, a student of Michelangelo. Housed
here are the Museo de la Alhambra, with a fine collection
of Nasrid art, and the Museo de Bellas Artes, with a
range of interesting Christian works.

6 Palacios Nazaríes
The Nasrid palaces are built of simple brick, wood
and stucco, in keeping with Islamic thought not to
compete with the creations of Allah.

7 Palacio de Mexuar
The most poorly preserved of the three palaces,
this area was the most public space, dedicated to judicial
and bureaucratic business. The original structure dates
from 1365, but there are obvious Christian overlays, since
it was converted to a chapel in the 16th century.

8 Palacio de Comares
Built in the mid-14th century, this area constituted
the Serallo , where the sultan would receive dignitaries
and deal with diplomatic issues. Inside is the Salón de
Embajadores, the main throne room of the Alhambra. In
front of the palace is the Patio de Arrayanes , where
serene fountains and pools, fragrant plantings, and
elaborate wood and stucco work are all strictly geometric
in design yet delicately refined, often featuring inscribed
poems in praise of Allah.

9 Palacio de los Leones
Dating from the late 1300s, this palace was the
Harem, the private zone reserved for the sultan and his
family. The fountain of 12 lions – which may represent
the 12 signs of the zodiac, the 12 hours of the clock, or
the 12 tribes of Israel – has become emblematic of the
whole Alhambra.

10 Partal
As you leave the Alhambra, stroll through the
gardens with their fountains and water-courses laid out
in an area that used to have palaces of its own. All you
can see of them now are five porticoed arches . This
area leads up to the Generalife, the summer palace. (see
Moorish Granada: Generalife).

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